TY - JOUR
T1 - Two-dimensional surf beat
T2 - Long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint
AU - Symonds, Graham
AU - Huntley, David A.
AU - Bowen, Anthony J.
PY - 1982/1/1
Y1 - 1982/1/1
N2 - A two-dimensional parametrization of a surf zone with a time-dependent breakpoint due to groupiness in the incident wave field is developed. The breakpoint is defined in terms of a mean position X plus a modulation DELTA alpha . Free wave solutions are obtained on a plane beach at the group frequency and its harmonics. Shoreward of the breakpoint, standing waves are found, while seaward an outgoing progressive wave exists. The amplitude of the standing wave is relatively insensitive to the incident wave field. The amplitude of the outgoing wave depends on X, the group frequency sigma , and the beach slope tan beta . For certain values of CHI equals ( sigma **2X/g tan beta ) the amplitude of the outgoing wave goes to zero. It appears that any 'resonant' response of the standing wave shoreward of the breakpoint is suppressed by seaward radiation of energy by the outgoing wave.
AB - A two-dimensional parametrization of a surf zone with a time-dependent breakpoint due to groupiness in the incident wave field is developed. The breakpoint is defined in terms of a mean position X plus a modulation DELTA alpha . Free wave solutions are obtained on a plane beach at the group frequency and its harmonics. Shoreward of the breakpoint, standing waves are found, while seaward an outgoing progressive wave exists. The amplitude of the standing wave is relatively insensitive to the incident wave field. The amplitude of the outgoing wave depends on X, the group frequency sigma , and the beach slope tan beta . For certain values of CHI equals ( sigma **2X/g tan beta ) the amplitude of the outgoing wave goes to zero. It appears that any 'resonant' response of the standing wave shoreward of the breakpoint is suppressed by seaward radiation of energy by the outgoing wave.
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=0019999201&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1029/JC087iC01p00492
DO - 10.1029/JC087iC01p00492
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:0019999201
VL - 87
SP - 492
EP - 498
JO - Journal of Geophysical Research - Oceans
JF - Journal of Geophysical Research - Oceans
SN - 0148-0227
IS - C1
ER -