The impact of fringing platform reefs on shoreline profiles

Andrew W.M. Pomeroy, Arnold Van Rooijen

Research output: Chapter in Book/Conference paperConference paperpeer-review

2 Citations (Scopus)


A laboratory experiment was conducted to investigate how a bimodal spectrum of high-frequency (sea-swell) and low-frequency (infragravity and seiching) waves affect the shape of a shoreline profile adjacent to a reef. The experiments were conducted in a 55 m wave flume, using a 1:15 scale fringing reef model that had a 1:5 forereef slope, a 14 m long reef flat, and a 1:12 sloping beach. The initial 7 m of reef flat had a fixed bed, whereas the back 7 m of the reef and the beach had a moveable sandy bed. Two irregular wave cases (low and high still water levels) were considered. In the physical model, the shoreline profile erodes and steepens to a slope of 1:7-1:8 and a berm forms above the mean water level. Numerical modelling using XBeach in non-hydrostatic and surf beat modes approximately reproduced the shoreline profile. Neither modelling mode reproduced the development of the berm, both over-estimated the sediment deposition on the bed. Further evaluation of processes responsible for sediment transport and shoreline development in reef environments, as well as how to numerically describe these processes, is required.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationAustralasian Coasts and Ports 2019 Conference: Future directions from 40 [degrees] S and beyond, Hobart, 10-13 September 2019
Place of PublicationAustralia
PublisherEngineers Australia
Number of pages7
ISBN (Print)9781925627237
Publication statusPublished - 2019
EventAustralasian Coasts and Ports 2019 Conference - Hobart, Australia
Duration: 10 Sept 201913 Sept 2019


ConferenceAustralasian Coasts and Ports 2019 Conference


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