Modelling non-linear nearshore dynamics of a barred coast: Palm Beach, Sydney, Australia

Marije W J Smit, Ad J H M Reniers, Graham Symonds, Gerben B G Ruessink

Research output: Chapter in Book/Conference paperConference paperpeer-review


The behaviour of nearshore sandbars has been studied using both observations and models. Previous modelling results showed the potential to hindcast the morphological behaviour of a barred system with a 2DH model. The current paper presents the hindcast of 5 days of video observed behaviour of Palm Beach, a single barred pocket beach. The selected morphodynamic sequence started from an almost longshore uniform barred profile, created during storm conditions, evolving towards a system with rips within days during lower energy conditions. The model included wave groups, cross shore processes like undertow and was forced with off shore measured wave conditions. The morphodynamic results agree qualitatively in rhythmicity, location of features and pace of evolution with the observed patterns. This indicates that the processes included in the model are sufficient to qualitatively model the observed sequence. Sensitivity tests with various transport equations and wave spreading show the importance of morphodynamic calibration of a model next to hydrodynamic calibration.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2006, ICCE 2006
Number of pages10
Publication statusPublished - 2007
Externally publishedYes
Event30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2006 - San Diego, CA, United States
Duration: 3 Sep 20068 Sep 2006


Conference30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2006
Country/TerritoryUnited States
CitySan Diego, CA


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