Abstract
The behaviour of nearshore sandbars has been studied using both observations and models. Previous modelling results showed the potential to hindcast the morphological behaviour of a barred system with a 2DH model. The current paper presents the hindcast of 5 days of video observed behaviour of Palm Beach, a single barred pocket beach. The selected morphodynamic sequence started from an almost longshore uniform barred profile, created during storm conditions, evolving towards a system with rips within days during lower energy conditions. The model included wave groups, cross shore processes like undertow and was forced with off shore measured wave conditions. The morphodynamic results agree qualitatively in rhythmicity, location of features and pace of evolution with the observed patterns. This indicates that the processes included in the model are sufficient to qualitatively model the observed sequence. Sensitivity tests with various transport equations and wave spreading show the importance of morphodynamic calibration of a model next to hydrodynamic calibration.
Original language | English |
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Title of host publication | Proceedings of the 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2006, ICCE 2006 |
Pages | 2691-2700 |
Number of pages | 10 |
Publication status | Published - 2007 |
Externally published | Yes |
Event | 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2006 - San Diego, CA, United States Duration: 3 Sept 2006 → 8 Sept 2006 |
Conference
Conference | 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2006 |
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Country/Territory | United States |
City | San Diego, CA |
Period | 3/09/06 → 8/09/06 |