Hydrodynamics in complex nearshore rocky reef environments

Gundula Winter

Research output: ThesisDoctoral Thesis

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Rocky reef-fringed coastlines are characterized by intermittent reef platforms with steep edges. Using field data and the numerical model XBeach, this thesis investigated the effect of this irregular bathymetry on wave processes, wave-driven circulations and cross-shore exchange of water with the surrounding ocean. Short period (3-25 seconds) waves were dissipated by the shallow reef structures driving nearshore circulations and increasing the importance of infragravity (25-250 seconds) waves. These infragravity waves formed cross-shore and locally alongshore standing wave patterns. The cross-shore exchange of water was decreased by small spatial scales and during conditions with large incident waves or strong along-shelf currents.
Original languageEnglish
QualificationDoctor of Philosophy
Awarding Institution
  • The University of Western Australia
Thesis sponsors
Award date19 Sep 2017
Publication statusUnpublished - 2017


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