Generation of free infragravity waves by time-varying breakpoint with real wave conditions

Stephanie Contardo, Graham Symonds

Research output: Chapter in Book/Conference paperConference paper

2 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

Breakpoint forcing is one of the major mechanisms for generation of free infragravity waves in the surf zone. Steep bed slopes, normalised to the incident sea-swell wavelength, are recognized to favor breakpoint forcing, but no study assesses the infragravity energy generated by breakpoint forcing in real conditions. We extend the breakpoint forcing model from bichromatic to spectral forcing and dimenzionalize the model output, and we estimate the sensitivity of the model to various spectral parameters on a plane beach. Steep beaches and short period waves (wind-sea) are favourable to breakpoint forcing, as expected. We also find that more energy is generated with real, multipeak, spectral forcing than with Jonswap spectra. The predicted infragravity response is consistent with observations on a barred beach suggesting breakpoint forcing is a major mechanism for the generation of free infragravity waves in the surf zone.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationJournal of Coastal Research
Subtitle of host publicationProceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium
EditorsA. Vila-Concejo, D.M. Kennedy, E. Bruce, R. Jak McCarroll
Place of PublicationUSA
PublisherBioOne
Pages836-840
Number of pages5
Edition75
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 1 Mar 2016
Externally publishedYes
Event14th International Coastal Symposium, ICS 2016 - Coogee Beach, Australia, Sydney, Australia
Duration: 6 Mar 201611 Mar 2016
https://ics2016.org/

Conference

Conference14th International Coastal Symposium, ICS 2016
Abbreviated titleICS 2016
CountryAustralia
CitySydney
Period6/03/1611/03/16
Internet address

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