Generation and propagation of free long waves in the nearshore

Stephanie Contardo

doi:10.26182/negd-6x07

Generation and propagation of free long waves in the nearshore

Stephanie Contardo

Research output: Thesis › Doctoral Thesis

41 Downloads (Pure)

Abstract

As short waves propagate towards the shore, and the water depth decreases, their energy dissipates due to bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. Conversely, long-wave energy tends to increase as depth decreases. As a result, long waves often play a major (or even dominant) role in surf and swash zones hydrodynamics, so it is crucial to understand their generation and propagation mechanisms to predict nearshore hydrodynamic processes that affect coastal inundation and shoreline erosion. To address this need, this thesis aims to develop new insight into long-waved dynamics in the nearshore zone.

Original language	English
Qualification	Doctor of Philosophy
Awarding Institution	The University of Western Australia
Supervisors/Advisors	Lowe, Ryan, Supervisor Hansen, Jeff, Supervisor Symonds, Graham, Supervisor
Thesis sponsors	Australian Government Research Training Program
Award date	18 Feb 2025
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.26182/negd-6x07
Publication status	Unpublished - 2025

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10.26182/negd-6x07

THESIS - DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY - CONTARDO Stephanie - 2024_
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2 Article

Free Long-Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Zone through Partial Reflections
Contardo, S., Lowe, R. J., Dufois, F., Hansen, J. E., Buckley, M. & Symonds, G., Mar 2023, In: Journal of Physical Oceanography. 53, 3, p. 661-681 21 p.
Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review
4 Citations (Scopus)
Free and forced components of shoaling long waves in the absence of short-wave breaking
Contardo, S., Lowe, R. J., Hansen, J. E., Rijnsdorp, D. P., Dufois, F. & Symonds, G., May 2021, In: Journal of Physical Oceanography. 51, 5, p. 1465-1487 23 p.
Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review
11 Citations (Scopus)

Cite this

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title = "Generation and propagation of free long waves in the nearshore",

abstract = "As short waves propagate towards the shore, and the water depth decreases, their energy dissipates due to bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. Conversely, long-wave energy tends to increase as depth decreases. As a result, long waves often play a major (or even dominant) role in surf and swash zones hydrodynamics, so it is crucial to understand their generation and propagation mechanisms to predict nearshore hydrodynamic processes that affect coastal inundation and shoreline erosion. To address this need, this thesis aims to develop new insight into long-waved dynamics in the nearshore zone.",

author = "Stephanie Contardo",

year = "2025",

doi = "10.26182/negd-6x07",

language = "English",

school = "The University of Western Australia",

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AU - Contardo, Stephanie

PY - 2025

Y1 - 2025

N2 - As short waves propagate towards the shore, and the water depth decreases, their energy dissipates due to bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. Conversely, long-wave energy tends to increase as depth decreases. As a result, long waves often play a major (or even dominant) role in surf and swash zones hydrodynamics, so it is crucial to understand their generation and propagation mechanisms to predict nearshore hydrodynamic processes that affect coastal inundation and shoreline erosion. To address this need, this thesis aims to develop new insight into long-waved dynamics in the nearshore zone.

AB - As short waves propagate towards the shore, and the water depth decreases, their energy dissipates due to bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. Conversely, long-wave energy tends to increase as depth decreases. As a result, long waves often play a major (or even dominant) role in surf and swash zones hydrodynamics, so it is crucial to understand their generation and propagation mechanisms to predict nearshore hydrodynamic processes that affect coastal inundation and shoreline erosion. To address this need, this thesis aims to develop new insight into long-waved dynamics in the nearshore zone.

U2 - 10.26182/negd-6x07

DO - 10.26182/negd-6x07

M3 - Doctoral Thesis

ER -

Generation and propagation of free long waves in the nearshore

Abstract

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Research output

Free Long-Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Zone through Partial Reflections

Free and forced components of shoaling long waves in the absence of short-wave breaking

Cite this