Abstract
[Truncated abstract] With rapidly increasing population densities along coastlines and rising global sea levels, coastal protection has become a major concern for coastal communities. Predicting sediment transport in nearshore regions, however, is one of the most challenging tasks faced by coastal researchers in designing coastal structures or beach nourishment schemes. Although nearshore sediment transport mainly occurs in the longshore direction, cross-shore sediment transport is crucial in determining the shoreline evolution and beach morphology . . . This study investigated the factors influencing sediment re-suspension and cross-shore suspended sediment flux in the frequency domain through a series of field measurements conducted at several different locations and a numerical model. Only oscillatory flow components were examined and the mean flow components were not considered. Although many different factors such as cross-shore location with respect to breaker line, significant wave height to water depth ratio (Hs/h), normalised horizontal velocity skewness (/‹u²›³/²), median grain size (d50), breaker type, and wave groupiness appeared to influence the magnitude of cross-shore suspended sediment flux, bed ripples was identified as the major contributing factor in changing the direction of suspended sediment flux due to incident swell waves. Moreover, the direction changed significantly with ripple type. High frequency measurements, obtained to examine the influence of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) on higher sediment suspension events observed under wave groups indicated that higher TKE was generated at the seabed by approaching wave groups, which in turn resulted in higher suspension events.
Original language | English |
---|---|
Qualification | Doctor of Philosophy |
Awarding Institution |
|
Supervisors/Advisors |
|
Award date | 12 Dec 2006 |
Publication status | Unpublished - 2006 |